Uganda
Journal
The Pearl Of Africa
Part 7
Day 16
From Bwindi Impenetrable via Lake Bunyonyi to Lake Mutanda
The trip from Bwindi Impenetrable National Park to Lake Mutanda leads us through the southwestern part of Uganda. We start off winding through the dense, misty forests of Bwindi, home to the famous mountain gorillas we encountered the day before. And as we leave the park, the landscape opens up to rolling hills and terraced farmland, typical of the region. The road is pretty bumpy and challenging, but the breathtaking scenery more than makes up for it. As we travel, we notice three majestic volcanoes looming on the horizon, which are part of the Virunga Mountains:
- Mount Muhabura: Often called “The Guide” in the local language, it stands at 4,127 meters. This dormant volcano is notable for its conical shape and offers stunning views of the surrounding area.
- Mount Sabinyo: Known as “Old Man’s Teeth” due to its jagged, serrated summit, it rises to 3,645 meters. It’s unique because it marks the border between Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
- Mount Gahinga: Standing at 3,474 meters , this is the smallest of the three volcanoes. Its name means “a pile of stones” in the local language, referring to the many small stones found on its slopes.
The bumpy ride and the famous „African message“ (that how the locals call driving on a bumpy road) is very intensive today.
No surprise that we need almost 5 hours for the 150 km trip.
Lake Mutanda
Arriving at Lake Mutanda, we are greeted by a serene, bluish body of water nestled in the foothills of the Virunga Mountains. A soft haze blankets the area, casting a dreamy atmosphere over the landscape. The reduced visibility and diffused light create a surreal scene, highlighting the small islands that dot the lake in an ethereal manner. The calm waters reflect the muted sky, adding to the tranquil ambiance.
Lake Mutanda is surrounded by steep, terraced hills that descend sharply to the water’s edge, providing a dramatic backdrop.
The lake itself is relatively shallow, and its waters are clear, making it a popular spot for swimming, canoeing, and fishing. The surrounding area is lush with tropical vegetation, offering a habitat for a variety of wildlife.
The name “Mutanda” is derived from a local legend. It is said that the lake was named after a man called Mutanda, who was believed to have supernatural powers. According to the legend, Mutanda’s spirit is still present in the lake, protecting it and ensuring its serenity.
Our accommodation, Mutanda Lake Resort, is situated on a charming peninsula that juts into the lake. The resort’s location offers panoramic views of the water and the surrounding hills, even through the mist. The serene environment invites us to take a leisurely walk along the shoreline, providing ample opportunities to spot various bird species and simply soak in the peacefulness of the surroundings.
Boat Trip on Lake Mutanda
Lake Mutanda is a birdwatcher’s paradise. The diverse ecosystem supports a wide range of bird species, including:
•African Fish Eagle: Known for its distinctive call, it’s often seen perched on trees around the lake, scanning the waters for fish.
•Kingfishers: Several species, such as the Malachite Kingfisher and the Pied Kingfisher, are commonly spotted diving for fish.
•Grey Crowned Crane: Uganda’s national bird, often seen in the wetlands around the lake.
•Cattle Egret: These birds are frequently seen foraging in the fields and along the shorelines.
On our walk, the air is filled with the calls of numerous birds. The mist adds a touch of mystery, making each sighting feel like a discovery. Among the birds we see are the striking Grey Crowned Cranes, their elegant plumes and golden crests standing out against the muted backdrop. Bulbuls, with their distinctive songs, are also common, adding their melodies to the chorus of nature. We also notice the Domestic Tyrant Bird, its bold behavior, considering its size, and sharp calls making it stand out among the foliage
The road meanders through the countryside, offering glimpses of local villages along the way as well as tea plantation. We pass by small houses with thatched roofs and vibrant gardens, where locals go about their daily activities. Children wave at us with big smiles, and we wave back, feeling a warm connection with the friendly locals.The scenery changes as we approach the rolling hills of the region. The landscape transforms into a patchwork of terraced fields, showcasing the hard work of the local farmers. We admire the dedication and effort that goes into cultivating these lands, and it fills us with a sense of admiration.
Deciding to further explore, we opt for a boat trip offered by the resort and as we glide across the still waters, the mist begins to lift slightly, revealing more of the lake’s beauty. The boat provides a perfect vantage point for birdwatching. The lake and its environs are teeming with birdlife. In addition to the Grey Crowned Cranes, bulbuls, and Domestic Tyrant Birds, we spot a variety of other species:
Ross’s TurracoWith its distinctive red head and blue body, it jumps from branch to branch in the trees
Hagedasch Ibis: It is named for its loud three to four note calls uttered in flight especially in the mornings and evenings when they fly out or return to their roost trees
Great Cormorant: Frequently seen drying its wings on rocks or tree stumps in the lake.
Palm-nut Vulture: Perched high in the trees, this bird of prey is notable for its preference for palm nuts, a unique dietary habit among vultures.
And finally we can observe two Grey Crowned Crane dancing at the shore of the lake for us
The boat ride is a serene experience, with the gentle lapping of water against the hull and the occasional splash of a fish breaking the surface. The mist gives way to clearer views, revealing the lush vegetation along the shoreline and the terraced hills beyond. The tranquillity of the lake and the abundance of birdlife make this an unforgettable experience.
Day 17
Lake Mutanda to Mgahinga Nationalpark and further to Lake Mburo Nationalpar
Not only the early bird catches the worm. Also the early explorer sees the monkeys.
It is still dark outside when we set out towards Mgahinga National Park, nestled within the Virunga Mountains. This range, shared by Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo, is renowned for its stunning landscapes and rich biodiversity.
Upon arriving at the park, we met our guide who briefed us about the golden monkeys and the hike we were about to undertake. The golden monkeys, a rare and beautiful species, are native to the bamboo forests of the Virunga Mountains. Their distinctive golden-orange fur and lively, agile behavior make them a fascinating subject for wildlife enthusiasts.
With a sense of excitement, we began our trek through the lush, verdant forest. The trail wound upwards, weaving through dense bamboo thickets and alongside clear mountain streams. The air was cool and fresh, filled with the sounds of chirping birds and rustling leaves.
After a couple of hours of hiking, we finally encountered a large group of golden monkeys. They were a sight to behold, leaping effortlessly from branch to branch, their golden fur gleaming in the dappled sunlight. We ran through the jungle, trying to keep pace with their swift movements, marveling at their agility and playful antics.
The experience of observing these endangered primates in their natural habitat was both exhilarating and humbling. We learned that conservation efforts are crucial for their survival, as their habitat is threatened by deforestation and human encroachment.
After our memorable encounter with the golden monkeys, we descended the mountains and made our way back to Lake Bunyonyi.
Although we experienced extreme heavy rain with strong winds we could take a boat to get to one of the island in the lake. Innocent, our guide, had to take care of our car again since we had another mechanical issue. So it was not sure if we are going to meet him in the evening.
We reached one of the islands on the lake for an overnight stay in the Lake Bunionyi Eco Resort. The tranquil waters and the serene environment provided a perfect setting to relax and reflect on the day’s adventures.
Day 18
LAKE MBURO NATIONALPARK
In the morning, we bid farewell to the serene and picturesque island. We crossed the lake and waited for Innocent on the shore. He had organized another car to continue our journey towards another marvel of the “Pearl of Africa” – Lake Mburo National Park. This leg of our adventure will take us approximately four hours to cover the 200 kilometers, leading us through a tapestry of diverse landscapes and vibrant communities.
As we approach Mbarara, the largest town in the region, the landscape becomes more agricultural, with expansive banana plantations and coffee farms stretching out on either side of the road. Mbarara serves as a major commercial hub, and its energetic atmosphere is a stark contrast to the tranquil surroundings we left behind at Lake Bunyonyi.
Continuing eastwards from Mbarara, the road takes us through smaller towns and villages, each with its own unique charm. The people we encounter along the way are warm and welcoming, their smiles and waves adding to the richness of our journey. The final stretch of our drive brings us closer to Lake Mburo National Park, where the vegetation starts to change once again, becoming more bushy and dotted with acacia trees, signaling our proximity to the park’s ecosystem.
We arrive at Lake Mburo National Park around 13:00, just in time for our first game drive. The park, one of only two in Uganda that hosts zebras, also boasts the unique distinction of being the sole national park in the country where impalas can be found. This afternoon, we set out on our game drive, eager to catch sight of these graceful animals along with a variety of other wildlife that inhabit the park, such as buffaloes, warthogs, and various species of antelope.
Day 19
Lake Mburo Nationalpark – Walking Safari
The absence of elephants and lions in Lake Mburo National Park makes it an ideal location for walking safaris, allowing us to experience the wilderness up close and on foot. This is precisely what we plan to do the next morning. With the first rays of light we head out for our walking safari, a unique opportunity to immerse ourselves in the natural beauty of the park, guided by an experienced ranger who shares his knowledge of the flora and fauna.
We encounter Zebras, as well as warthogs, a lot of different birds and even some longhorns however they belong to the farmers in the area. Actually they don’t like their animals to be photographed so please be careful to avoid conflict. We asked nicely and got permission.
The afternoon we spend in the area of our accommodation. The Rwakobo Rock is located at the nothside of the national park with a beautiful view into the park area. From the elevated position we can observe the animals in the savannah and we use the day to relax.
Now that our Uganda trip neared its end we start to prepare for our journey back to Entebbe and from their back home.
Day 20
Lake Mburo Nationalpark to Entbebbe and Mabamba Swamps
Today we are heading back to Entebbe. Our last official ride with our guide Innocent before we leave Uganda. The drive to Entebbe takes us 6 hours. On the road we stop from time to time to see fruit markets and since we haven’t tested it yet we need to have a bite of a jackfruit. It is a special one since the fruit really stinks however the taste is delightful. We can only recommend to try it. Fortunately the friendly woman on the market prepares it for us.
Day 21
Mabamba Swamps
In the morning we got quite a surprise. Innocent is back at our hotel and tells us that before leaving this beautiful country, we have to embark on one final adventure: a journey into the Mabamba Swamp to catch a glimpse of the elusive Shoebill Stork. The excitement was palpable as we boarded the small, flat-bottomed boat, perfect for navigating the shallow waters and dense vegetation of the swamp.
The Shoebill Stork
The Shoebill Stork is an astonishing bird, resembling a creature from a prehistoric era. Standing up to five feet tall with a wingspan of over eight feet, its most striking feature is its enormous, shoe-shaped bill, which it uses to catch fish and other prey. Its slate-grey plumage, piercing yellow eyes, and slow, deliberate movements give it an almost otherworldly appearance, making it a sought-after sight for bird watchers and nature enthusiasts alike.
As we glided into the Mabamba Swamp, the landscape transformed into a maze of papyrus reeds, water lilies, and winding channels. The air was filled with the sounds of chirping insects, croaking frogs, and the calls of various birds. The swamp, a vast wetland ecosystem on the edge of Lake Victoria, is teeming with life and offers a tranquil yet vibrant atmosphere.
Our expert guide navigated us through narrow channels, pointing out the diverse birdlife that calls the swamp home. We saw African jacanas gracefully walking on floating vegetation with their long toes, brightly colored malachite kingfishers darting by, and flocks of pied kingfishers hovering before diving into the water to catch fish. The occasional flash of a black-and-white wing signaled the presence of the African fish eagle, a majestic raptor that watched over the swamp from its perch.
After some time of careful maneuvering and quiet anticipation, our guide hushed us as he spotted movement in the distance. There, partially obscured by the tall papyrus, stood the Shoebill Stork. Its imposing figure was unmistakable. We watched in awe as it stood motionless, its gaze focused on the water below. Suddenly, with lightning speed, it struck, emerging with a sizeable fish clasped in its powerful bill.
The sighting was both exhilarating and surreal, a perfect encapsulation of the wild beauty of Uganda. We spent several minutes observing the Shoebill, taking in every detail of its fascinating behavior before it slowly waded away into the reeds, disappearing as silently as it had appeared.
As we made our way back through the swamp, the thrill of seeing such a rare and prehistoric-looking bird stayed with us. The Mabamba Swamp, with its rich biodiversity and serene landscapes, had given us an unforgettable experience. Our journey back to Entebbe was filled with reflections on the wonders we had seen and a sense of fulfillment from our successful quest to find the Shoebill Stork.
Our trip to Uganda has been nothing short of extraordinary. From the exhilarating encounters with chimpanzees in Kibale Forest and the awe-inspiring moments spent with mountain gorillas and golden monkeys in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park to the thrilling sightings of lions, leopards, and countless other wildlife species in Queen Elizabeth National Park and beyond, every experience has been a testament to Uganda’s rich biodiversity.
The friendliness of the Ugandan people has made our journey even more memorable. We were warmly welcomed by coffee farmers who shared their knowledge and delicious brews, and we delighted in local street foods like chapati and the ever-popular Rolex, savoring the flavors that define Ugandan cuisine.
Everywhere we traveled, the stunning scenery left us breathless—from the lush rainforests and mist-covered mountains to the expansive savannahs and serene lakes. Uganda’s landscapes are as diverse as its wildlife, offering endless beauty and adventure at every turn.
As we conclude our trip, we carry with us not only the memories of the incredible wildlife and breathtaking vistas but also the warmth and hospitality of the Ugandan people. Uganda has left an indelible mark on our hearts, and its wonders will continue to inspire and enchant us long after our return home.
Portfolio
Uganda
"Africa has her mysteries, and even a wise man cannot understand them. But a wise man respects them" — Miriam Makeba
Birds Uganda
“Some birds are not meant to be caged, that's all. Their feathers are too bright, their songs too sweet and wild. So you let them go, or when you open the cage to feed them they somehow fly out past you. And the part of you that knows it was wrong to imprison them in the first place rejoices, but still, the place where you live is that much more drab and empty for their departure.” ― Stephen King, Rita Hayworth and Shawshank Redemption
Wildlife Uganda
“The more you learn about the dignity of the gorilla, the more you want to avoid people.” - Diane Fossey
