Cuba
Journal
A Country Frozen in Time
Part 1 - Havana
Day 01
Arrival in Havana
Our plane touched down in Havana at 7:35 PM, and we could feel the warmth of the tropical evening as we stepped out. The transfer from the airport to our first accommodation, Casa Vieja 1840, offered a glimpse of the quiet, dimly lit streets of the city.
As we drove, the streets seemed almost deserted, with only a few old cars humming softly under the glow of dim streetlights. Our driver pointed out some landmarks in the distance, but exhaustion blurred the details. When we arrived, the “night guard” greeted us and showed us to our simple yet charming room. Casa Particulares, like this one, offer a uniquely Cuban experience, with a personal touch that’s far from the anonymity of chain hotels. We fell asleep almost immediately, eager for the days ahead.
Day 02
Havana Unveiled
We woke up to a modest breakfast on the rooftop terrace, where the realities of Cuba became evident. Milk was scarce, and many basic ingredients were missing, but our hosts’ smiles made up for it. Despite their hardships, the Cuban people exude a resilience and optimism that is truly inspiring. That was also the first time when we met Tonja the turtle who lives in an „own estate“ on the rooftop terrace.
At 9:30 AM, we met our guide, Wilfredo, who charmed us with his fluent German and deep knowledge of Havana’s history. We began our tour in an iconic American convertible, cruising through Havana’s past and present. The ride took us along the Malecón, Havana’s famous seafront promenade, lined with once-grand hotels that now stand empty.
View on Havana Old town
We stopped at landmarks like the Plaza de la Revolución, where the towering portraits of Che Guevara and Fidel Castro loom over the city, and the Great Christ of Havana, offering sweeping views of the bay. The Almendares Park, known as the “green lung” of Havana, was a serene surprise amidst the bustling city, its shady avenues filled with vintage cars.
Walking through Havana’s historic center, we admired the San Cristobal Cathedral, with its baroque architecture, and the Plaza Vieja, where crumbling facades revealed Havana’s faded grandeur. Alongside this charm, we noticed a thriving black market, a testimony to the resilience of locals finding creative solutions to shortages.
The evening ended on our rooftop, with cigars, Cuba Libres (with just a splash of cola), and the soulful rhythms of Cuban music under the stars.
Day 3
Exploring Havana on Foot
Havana invites exploration, so we set out on foot after breakfast. Our first stop was the Rum Museum, where we learned about the art of rum-making and enjoyed a tasting. We then wandered along the Malecón, where the sea spray mixed with the humid air.
The Castillo de la Real Fuerza, one of the oldest forts in the Americas, was an architectural marvel, with its watchtower offering panoramic views of the bay. Nearby, at the Plaza de Armas, we browsed a lively book market and admired the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, a masterpiece of colonial architecture.
Finally we got to the capitol.
El Capitolio, Havana’s most iconic building, was completed in 1929 and modeled after the U.S. Capitol in Washington D.C. Built under President Gerardo Machado, it symbolized Cuba’s aspirations for modernity and national pride during the early 20th century.
Its most striking feature is the golden dome, covered in 24-karat gold leaf imported from Russia. The decision to gild the dome came mid-construction, adding grandeur and global flair to the skyline.
El Capitolio
Classic cars roamed the streets, their vibrant colors contrasting with the worn facades of buildings. We marveled at the Capitol from the outside, its grandeur rivaling that of Washington, D.C. As dusk fell, we returned to the rooftop, enjoying Havana’s timeless beauty.
Day 4
A Rooftop Perspective
The morning began with a walk through the old town, where we observed children practicing sports at the Plaza Vieja. A visit to the bustling market hall near the harbor offered a glimpse of daily life, with locals trading fresh produce and handcrafted goods.
Later, we rented a quirky yellow “Coco Taxi” to cruise along the Malecón. Its bright, egg-shaped cabin turned heads as we zipped through the streets. At 3:30 PM, we met Wilfredo again for a rooftop tour of Havana. Traveling in another vintage convertible, we moved from one stunning view to another, watching the city bathed in golden light as the sun set. The views from the different rooftops are stunning and finally we end up at a bar behind a hidden entrance (Wilfredo’s sister works here) which is not so much for tourists.
We enjoy the evening with cocktails and cuban music. Then it is time to say farewell to Wilfredo. And it is also almost time to say goodby to Havana. Tomorrow we are heading for Viñales.
Portfolio
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Birds Uganda
“Some birds are not meant to be caged, that's all. Their feathers are too bright, their songs too sweet and wild. So you let them go, or when you open the cage to feed them they somehow fly out past you. And the part of you that knows it was wrong to imprison them in the first place rejoices, but still, the place where you live is that much more drab and empty for their departure.” ― Stephen King, Rita Hayworth and Shawshank Redemption
Wildlife Uganda
“The more you learn about the dignity of the gorilla, the more you want to avoid people.” - Diane Fossey
